Northwest River trip, 6.15.2008
I am having problems with my waterproof camera so no pics this time. I think it is just bad batteries. Its a shame because there was a lot to see on this paddle. Also I forgot my binoculars so I missed out on some birdwatching because of that. Anyway.....
Trip stats:
13.7 miles per my GPS unit but I didn't reset the odometer feature for about a 1/4 mile after I launched, so I am a little off. An even 14 miles sounds good and is probably darn close to the correct mileage. Not that it matters (tell my body that!) much anyway.
Most of the paddle I was traveling at about 3 miles per hour. The trip took about six hours but I stopped for just over 3/4 of an hour in various spots.
This was my best and longest trip yet. From Bob's Fishing Hole at route 168 and Gallbush Road in Chesapeake to the bridge at Bunch Walnuts Road in Chesapeake and back. I've wanted to do this paddle for a while. I wasn't sure how far I could make it and was pleasantly surprised that the route was mostly clear. There was a bit of manuevering to do in the last two miles heading for the bridge at Bunch Walnuts Road.
Okay, before I go into the trip much more, let me say that Bob's Fishing Hole has really improved the site and the kayak lunch was great. Easily accessible and I did not have to navigate a field of mudholes like I did two years ago (which was the last time I put in there). For those wondering, the cartop launch fee is $2. They have a porta-john also.
I forgot to bring my map of the river although I thought I knew the overall layout good enough not to need it. I don't have a maps package for my GPS yet and did not make a map (which can be done in various ways from what I've researched on the net) so my only guidance there is direction and major roads. In the case of this paddle, route 168 and route 17---no help on the river. I made one wrong turn but could tell quickly because there were wood duck breeding boxes (I believe they are for wood ducks) along the route. I went ahead and explored it. Once returning to the main river I asked some fishermen if I was on the right course and I was. Whew! I knew there were a few little offshoots along the western part of the river but figured they would be easier to spot and stay out of. So I was on the right track and heading west!
It didn't take long for me to arrive at the spot in the river where power lines cut through the surrounding land and I recognized that from a previous trip. I knew that within a mile I would be past where I had paddled before when I went out there two years ago. Shortly I ran across a clearing where I could see a field that probably usually is filled with corn. I knew that I would be skirting the land on the north side of Ballahack Road so that was not a big surprise. I also knew the next landmark was coming but it was different than expected. It was a bridge at a spot called Lyzer's Land where a local woman donated land to the Nature Conservancy (read about that in the WRO book). I was expecting some type of log bridge that was very old and that would cause me to have to portage over it. What I found was a raised bridge with new wood on it and so high that I could easily pass under it. So right then I knew that unless there were trees blocking the river I would not need to portage to reach my destination. The river near this point had changed from a nice tannin color to a green carpet of duckweed. Very cool to look at and paddle through. It was around this area that I found the obstacles in the river. Fallen trees were aplenty but they were easily traversed and I never got out of the boat. I had just gone around a rather large one with a very small opening on the northern side when I spotted a water mocassin about 7 yards ahead of me. He was moving slowly and since the river was a bit crowded here, I gave it some space. It did not know I was there because I was so quiet and it took its time moving along. Finally it had moved to the side enough to where I felt I could chance going around it. A couple of paddle dips in the water and it heard/felt me and took off into the surrounding woods. Whew! It wasn't big but I prefer to know snakes are there and not see them. Shortly after that there was a little island in the middle of the river (very skinny) where someone has hung a sign saying "Rattlesnake Island" or was it "Rattlesnake Point"? No matter, the sign was done very well and once again I found obstacles to navigate around. I got through easily enough and didn't meet any of the island residents in the process, good! Soon I was very close to my halfway point. I could hear HVAC equipment running and knew it must be something at the Triple R Ranch. I've never visited the ranch and was in for a treat as I passed along it's north side. There was a huge building (source of the HVAC noise) and many outbuildings (cabins, bunkhouses, whatever they call them). Also there was a clearing with wood benches probably for camp meetings and religious services. Finally there was a large gravel bank area and a building housing 18 canoes. It was about then that I heard cars and knew I was close to Bunch Walnuts Road. Sure enough it was less than a 1/4 mile away. I went under the bridge and had lunch on the west side. It was 12 PM and I had put in at Bob's at about 9 AM. Seven miles in 3 hours, I was happy with that.
So I launched for the return trip about a 1/2 hour later and headed for Bob's some 7 miles away to the east. I was not overly tired and looked forward to the return trip. The areas with the obstacles were much easier to navigate around heading east and before I knew it I was back at the bridge at Lyzer's Land. From there it was smooth sailing back to Bob's.
Alright, so along the way I did manage to spot some birds and see some wildlife. As I stated previously, I encountered one snake. That makes a good paddle right there! I saw three deer and heard many more splashing around the swampy areas as they tried to run from me. One particular bend in the river brought me right up on a very young/small deer drinking and he(or she) bounded away more like a rabbit than a deer. I saw one beaver and heard several others. I saw a lot of birds and heard even more. Since I forgot the binoculars I missed identifying most of them. One bird I did see quite a bit of was the Prothonotary Warbler. They provided me with a lot of viewing opportunities. I saw ducks. Usually when I see ducks they are Mallards or American Black Ducks. These ducks were mostly solitary and looked like adult female Redheads although they were probably another type. I saw some juvenile ducks and in one case, they swam contentedly up in front of me for a few minutes before they half flew/half paddled away. I saw what was probably a Cooper's Hawk or a SharpShinned Hawk but couldn't get a very good look to really identify. And as usual, I saw lots of Great Blue Herons. I came around a bend and caught one before it flew off. They are huge! I saw a Pileated Woodpecker and heard more of them. I heard some Red Bellied Woodpeckers and saw a woodpecker flying between trees. Probably a Downy or Hairy based on size and color (I'm pretty familiar with Red Bellieds and this was not one). I did not encounter a Belted Kingfisher this time which is strange (or maybe I just wasn't paying attention). Lots and lots of turtles, Skinks on the wood bridge and fish. I am pretty sure that most the fish I saw where Bowfin because they are long and I would catch them as they would turn and dive and see their length. Now I also kept scaring up something big in the water. I was hoping River Otters but I have seen them before and they are usually curious and will surface to keep tabs on a kayaker. I think these may have been beaver. I never saw them but the water would explode and in one case, there was a huge area of turbulence just under the boat. Whatever they were, they were close to me and usually spooked on a paddle dip. If they were fish, they were lunkers for sure!
So that was my first big trip. 14 miles, 6 hours and lots of nice scenery. The weather was mostly overcast until about noon and the temperature mild. It sprinkled on and off most of the morning and made for a very pleasant paddle west. The sun peeked through a few times around noon and then managed to stay out for most of the afternoon. The rain was gone and the temps rose some. It wasn't terribly hot or humid but the wind sometimes brought smoke from one or both of the two fires (NC and Dismal Swamp) burning this week. Then the wind would shift and it would be gone. All in all a very pleasant day to paddle. And to think I almost did this paddle on 6.14 which was a hatefully hot and humid day. Sometimes I do make the right decision!
My next Northwest river trip will either be a southerly trip into NE North Carolina or I may try going west from the bridge at Bunch Walnuts Road and see how far I can get.
I may upload a map for the paddle I did today in the near future. No promises but I have the data saved in my GPS and I think I can overlay it on a map.
Until next time.......