"There were rivers after these rivers and ranges after these ranges, uncountable vivid valleys that were a heaving, pelagic green. Once the knack was acquired, it was nothing to go for a month or the summer, lazing along ... and never encounter an end." With these words, Edward Hoagland observed the Skeena and Stikine watersheds in his Journal from British Columbia, in the 1960's. Across the decades and the forests and the waters there still remains that "vivid" expanse of wildness.

top: red huckleberries, delicious and plentiful. left: glaciers on mountains above Smithers. below: sailing in area where Queen Charlotte Sound narrows into Johnston Strait.

Alert Bay, Cormorant Island and environs, off the northeast coast of Vancouver Island. On a days sail to watch orca (killer whales), we see playful Dalls porpoise, blacktail deer, seals, sea birds, bald eagles, and two wolves. Wolves... Canis lupus! ... Awesome. ... The resident killer whales had followed the salmon toward Port Hardy, perhaps forty kilometers away. We visited an area frequented by minke whale ... the krill was there, but no minkes. Apart from a couple of young volunteers that captain Dave ferried between Alert Bay and OrcaLab, we had his classic yacht to ourselves. Dave topped-off the day by serving us fresh baked muffins, and Devonshire tea (New Zealand-style?), with delicious hot scones, jam, and cream... Wonder and comfort on a serene sea in a wild place ... wolves ... everyone should have days like this...