Making a Cascade type
Bridle System for the NPW, or NASA WING.
( Using quite
unconventional methods, I might add. )
Bridling is what makes a kite hold
its intended shape. Good bridling can even
save a poorly built kite, occasionally, so close attention to this phase of
building can pay big dividends. In the
case of the NPW, 36 lines gathered together well in front of the kite sail can
equate to a LOT of line and frontal area to penetrate the wind. The Cascade Bridle eliminates about 1/3 of
that frontal area, and, of course uses about 1/3 less line.
The amount of knots tied in the
cascade bridle is about the same as the conventionally tied bridle. I use a looping system that uses the same number
of knots as the conventional bridle, as such, thusly eliminating the
pain in the butt of constantly untangling ensnared shrouds (lines) from
themselves after the kite hits the ground.
After tuning, it is a clean and uncluttered bridle.
This bridling system is also a LOT easier to make as MANY of the shrouds are the same length. All the primary lines, for example, are the same length… all of 'em!! Because of this, many of the lines can be strung out on the workbench at one time saving a lot of repetition. So without further ado-
Here's an example of a printout
for a 3.5 sq.meter NPW Cascade Bridle using almost identical Excel programs
from Andy Hook of the UK, and Jacques Bayman of South Africa. Thanks a lot, guys!!
I've inserted the measurements taken from
their excel programs, putting the specs in the order that I bridle my
NPW's. Note that I use the A-9 thru
A-12 shrouds for brakes. Any
combination of brake lines can be used to suit your fancy; B5-B6 with A-11 and
12, or whatever.
Because all the primaries are of
the same length I cut ALL of them first. I make all 12 primaries (double
length) at a time, folding each in half at point "Q". I then add 4" or so to EACH END to use
as a looped connector or knot for the secondaries. Then I connect them to the proper harness loop that connects
directly to the flying lines. Right
top, then brakes, left top, and left brakes… 4 separate connections.
The reason I make this harness
setup before the rest of the bridling and shrouds, is because once all of the
primaries are knotted and in place, they can then ALL be marked permanently at
the same time as to where the secondaries will ultimately connect… ALL the marks will be even at this point
after the line connectors at the "Q"
points have been tied to them. Whole
lot easier!! I also use a step lighter
line for the secondaries. For example: 50# primaries, and 30# secondaries. On NPW's over 5 meters I would go to 80#
primaries and 50# secondaries. I
certainly wished I'd done this on the new 10 meter Giant Killer Bee-
One other consideration for the primaries' hookup is which set of secondaries to connect the primaries to. The angle of attack could be significantly changed if the looped back primaries were connected sequentially and progressively from top to bottom to center of the sail. (This is only a theory, as I haven't done it, but it makes pretty good sense to me. If I had more time to play and a lot more wind than we get in Phoenix, I would certainly try it!!) Connecting the A1/A2 and B5/B6 secondaries to the same folded primary, followed by the A3/A4 to B3/B4, A5/A6 to B1/B2, and lastly the A7/A8 on a single primary with a terminal loop at the harness connection would do the trick. The double square knot at the "Q" points could then by loosened for any changes and re-tightened.
Pix are shown below of all the
connections in the bridle. The loop
style sail connections are covered in the earlier bridle article.
This is the type connection for where the upper lines loop together at
the harness loop, or line connectors.
The lower, brake line, is just the same, but use fewer shrouds that make
up the brake lines. Once again, make
sure the shrouds go around the harness loop, and not the other way around. A double Square Knot is more than sufficient
to hold them in place. The knot (left)
is what I call a 1-1/2 Square Knot. (2x around one side, 1 the other.) These lines WILL NOT SLIP, and can be
loosened if needed.
Here's a series of
pix showing how I tie the primaries to the secondaries. A pic's worth a thousand words……
Start with the
fid, make a loop with the primary, pull it through itself almost closing the
loop with the secondaries "square knotted" in place. Start pulling the while thing together…
Tighten up the
lines keeping the marks close together and closing the primary loop first. Pull the fid clear through the primary and
bury the tag end. Now tighten well.
This is a
completed "knot". Clean and
it won't hang up on the other shrouds.
Here's the folded over
50# primary connected to the two 30# secondaries which are also folded in
half. I call this one "set"
of shrouds. The terminal ends to the
right are what tie directly to the kite.
4 of them. Leave at least 4"
extra, or more for adjustments at the sail or whatever length you think you may
need… After you make all 9
"sets" they can be tied off to the kite.
That's it! Any inquiries, thoughts, or suggestions are
quite welcomed!
Good
Luck and Have fun!!! ~8O)
Bill Painter- Phoenix,
Az. NPWBill@cox.net May the wind always BE
at your back!!
Go back to the Just MY STUFF Site or the NPWBill Site ??
Or the standard BRIDLES page?