If you're bored with the big chain restaurants, give these smaller places a try! You won't be disappointed.

Price Ranges:
Inexpensive: typical entrée less than $10
Moderate: typical entrée $10 - $17
Expensive: typical entrée over $17

Pizzeria Bianco
623 E. Adams St., in Heritage Square, Phoenix
Pizza. Inexpensive to Moderate.

Located in a renovated turn of the century house in the Heritage Square historic "district" downtown, Chris Bianco has simply the best wood-fired pizza I have had anywhere. Only five are listed on the menu, but a list of toppings a la carte lest you modify and embellish to your heart's content. The toppings are all delicious, but the crust is the real star of the show. It defies description and simply must be tried. Don't miss out on Bianco's Italian appetizers, especially the antipasto of roasted vegetables, cheese and meats, changing daily based on what Chris & Co. were able to obtain or pull from the small garden in the back of the restaurant. The wine list of a dozen or so inexpensive Italian and American bottles may be considered hum-drum by wine snobs, but there aren't many places in Phoenix where you can get a glass of perfectly drinkable Dolcetto or Barbera for $6 or so a glass, and it goes perfectly with the simple but sublime food. Reservations are not accepted, and the place is so small and popular that unless you are at the door a few minutes before the 5:00 p.m. opening time, you are guaranteed a wait of an hour or more. This is not necessarily a bad thing, however, as Bianco's bar in another restored house next door lets you while your wait away in a comfy vintage armchair.

Caffe Boa
709 S. Mill Ave., Tempe (downtown)
Italian. Inexpensive to Moderate.

A downtown Tempe institution that predates the gentrification. An all-pasta menu features a handful of "old faithfuls" (Puttanesca, mushroom ravioli), all delicious, and an equal number of more creative specials that change monthly. At the heart of it all, though, is classic Italian cooking expertly done in the tiny open kitchen. The days of $4 glasses of house wine are long gone, but the wine list has been getting more interesting in the last year or two, so the markups are worth it. The main dining room, quaint though it is, has only a half-dozen or so tables, but there is a nice patio in the back and a few tables out front, offering what is possibly the only true sidewalk dining in the area. Boa consistently wins awards as the best "date" restaurant, but be sure your date is an attractive one, or the wait staff will steal your attention. Reservations not accepted.

Cherry Blossom Noodle Café
914 E. Camelback Rd., between 7th & 12th Sts., Phoenix

Asian. Inexpensive. A relative newcomer to the Phoenix fickle dining scene that hopes to beat the odds with an "all things noodle" theme. So far, the results are mostly promising. Soba and udon noodles are every bit as good as I've had in the heart of Kyoto. Tempura is likewise the real thing, and Cherry Blossom's Pad Thai handily beats most "pure" Thai restaurants' versions. The menu also features a number of "Italian" pasta dishes, although I had no idea Italians used so much ginger and soy sauce in their cooking. The atmosphere is warm and cozy. My favorite spot is the large counter which faces the open kitchen and makes for a perfect spot for solo dining. The only complaint is the service, which is often frantic and disorganized to the point of your entrees appearing before your appetizers. Let's hope it improves with experience. No reservations.

Convivo
7000 N. 16th St., NW corner of Glendale Ave., Phoenix
New American. Expensive.

Tucked away in an unassuming storefront in a North Phoenix strip mall, Convivo may be this city's best kept culinary secret. This small dining room sparsely but tastefully decorated in California-inspired pastels serves some of the most creative and delicious dishes using only the freshest top-quality ingredients. The menu changes weekly and while not large, features something for every taste. Small but choice wine list. The service is friendly and unintrusive. Not cheap, but the quality of food is such that you quickly forget the prices and simply enjoy your meal. Reservations are essential - perhaps it is not Phoenix's best-kept secret after all.

Duck and Decanter
1651 E. Camelback, E. of 16th Street, in back of parking lot, Phoenix
Sandwiches. Inexpensive to Moderate.

More expensive than a typical sandwich shop, but well worth it. Order a custom-made sandwich - all ingredients are top quality, and the selection of cheeses (also sold retail) is mind-boggling - or go for one of their specialties. Genoa salami with garlic cream cheese and marinated tomatoes is particularly good. Then pick up a glass of wine in the cellar room and retire to the patio, or stay right there in the cellar and enjoy your lunch amidst stacks of wine bottles. No reservations.

Furio
7210 E. 2nd St., just E. of Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale
New American with a quasi-Italian twist. Expensive.

The Italian part figures more prominently in the menu write-ups and signs than in the food itself, but do not let that stop you from enjoying Furio's selection of expertly prepared contemporary dishes. Even the steamed mussels were plump, with no trace of stale fishiness, and every last one was alive and kicking when it went into the pot - not an easy thing to find in Phoenix. The décor and people-watching are just as much a part of the experience as the meal (this is Scottsdale, after all), and when you're not hungry, the bar is an excellent place to bask in the purple glow of light tubes and soothing sounds of ambient trance and enjoy the generous pinch of fresh mint leaves in Furio's mojitos. Avoid the place on Sunday nights, when a smattering of DJs from local nightclubs make a guest appearance to spin their tunes at ear-splitting volume to an almost-empty microscopic dance floor. For the effete, the bored, and those in search of "what are they going to come up with next" experiences, Monday evenings feature a package deal of a professional manicure and a designer martini for a low fixed price of about $15.

Jewel of the Crown
7128 E. 5th Ave., in the Scottsdale Center for the Arts park.
Indian. Inexpensive to Moderate.

No creativity, but lots of quality. The best traditional Northern Indian (what most people think of as Indian) cuisine I've been able to find in Phoenix. Lamb boti masala - cubes of lamb rubbed with spices and roasted in the tandoor (clay oven), then mixed at the last moment with a rich masala sauce -- is sublime. Service is friendly and the décor is a step above many other Indian establishments. No reservations.

Pepin
7363 E. Scottsdale Mall, in the Scottsdale Center for the Arts park.
Spanish. Moderate to Expensive.

One word: paella. Pepin's classic concoction of steamed mussels, clams, shrimp, grilled chicken and succulent, moist short-grain rice is an institution here, but the rest of mostly traditional Spanish offerings certainly does not disappoint either. The tapas are good too, although not necessarily cost-effective. Small wine list features a few uncommon Spanish selections. The place has been around forever, so those looking for cutting-edge style should look elsewhere, but it is comfortable and inviting. Live flamenco is featured a couple of nights a week, but in my opinion distracts from the wonderful food - ask for a table on the elevated platform overlooking the park. Pepin is as popular as ever these days, so reservations are strongly recommended.

Pho Bang
1702 W. Camelback Rd., at 17th Ave., Phoenix
Vietnamese. Inexpensive.

A neighborhood hole in the wall, complete with a surly proprietress, reputed to be patronized by Senator John McCain (the restaurant, not the proprietress). Killer pho (beef noodle soup). The rest of the food is a little more uneven, but never less than satisfying. And at prices like these, who can complain? Very much a hangout for the local Vietnamese community, so if Asian music videos and cigarette smoke that sometimes drifts over to the non-smoking section is not your thing, you may want to get your food to go. No reservations.

Phoenix City Grille
5816 N. 16th St., SW corner of Bethany Home Rd., Phoenix
American with a Southwestern Twist. Moderate to Expensive.

The crowd is nothing to marvel at - the place is patronized mostly by those who made their money on the first development boom of the fifties - but don't let that stop you from enjoying the food. Steaks and burgers abound for the unadventurous, but there are a few more interesting specialties worth checking out. Cedar-plank salmon, ostensibly prepared the way Indians in the Pacific Northwest did it, is a favorite, along with tortilla soup and apple-stuffed pork chop. Reservations recommended.

Portland's
105 W. Portland St., at Central Ave. just North of Roosevelt, Phoenix
New American. Expensive.

Another "me too" nouvelle establishment at first glance, Portland's quickly earns respect for a selection of primarily meat and fish dishes, prepared with meticulous attention to detail and ingredients quality and served with an almost Japanese emphasis on presentation. Menu changes periodically, but a few favorites, such as seared salmon with lentils, seem to reappear time after time and are well worth the trip for suburbanites. The wine list is one of Portland's points of pride, and while the wine maven Rick has recently left, his sister Michelle will gladly recommend something from her collection of unusual but lovely vintages. The décor is a little "Crate and Barrel" for some tastes, but makes for a pleasant environment nevertheless. Reservations are recommended, especially on evening when large arts events take place downtown. Portland's is also a great place to stop at its clean and quiet half-moon-shaped bar to have a glass of wine and chat with the curious mixture of local post-yuppies attempting to do the city thing in Phoenix and visitors staying at downtown hotels.

Richardson's
1582 E. Bethany Home Rd., NW corner of 16th St., Phoenix
New Mexico-style Southwestern. Moderate to Expensive.

For those unfamiliar with New Mexico-style Southwestern cuisine, the fire of red and green chile sauces made from the best New Mexican specimens bursting with flavor will be a revelation and quite likely the beginning of a life-long love, and this Central Phoenix institution is as good as New Mex gets outside of Deming or Santa Fe. Lists of original specials that use Southwestern ingredients adorn chalkboards along the walls, but there is nothing wrong with sticking with the classics, printed on menus-cum-placemats. Posole (pork stew with hominy and red chile sauce) is out of this world, and the rellenos are not far behind. The interior is dark and cozy - sort of a Santa Fe adobe house turned inside out. It is also cramped and noisy but that's part of the charm. The wait approaches an hour regardless of time of day, it seems, and Richardson's does not take reservations for parties fewer than four, but there is a secret - an unmarked bar around the corner (look for cacti planted in flowerbeds by the entrance) is first-come, first-serve, and features the same menu as the main dining room.

Sam's Café
2566 E. Camelback Rd., in the Biltmore Fashion Park, Phoenix
Also at the Arizona Center, downtown Phoenix
Southwestern. Moderate.

These simple but attractive dining rooms offer a good selection of Southwestern dishes in various degrees of authenticity, from quesadillas and burritos to chile-rubbed beef tenderloins and stuffed pork chops with chipotle-barbeque sauce. The quality is generally good, but be careful how you order your meat - the kitchen tends to err on the side of doneness. Complimentary miniature white chocolate tamales at the end of the meal are a nice touch. Reservations recommended at the Arizona Center location.

San Carlos Bay
1901 E. McDowell Rd., at 19th St., Phoenix
Mexican seafood. Inexpensive to moderate.

Located in the heart of the Mexican barrio, these guys have got to be exploiting some sort of loophole, legal or otherwise, to import fresh seafood from Rocky Point without paying tariffs. While not dirt-cheap, you'd pay twice as much for this sort of quality elsewhere. The recipes are traditional - this is heavy, rich food - but the kitchen knows what it's doing: the flavor of the fish is never overpowered by the sauces and seasonings. No credit cards. No reservations. Very little English is spoken.

Sonora Brewhouse
322 E. Camelback Rd., bet. 7th St. and Central, Phoenix
Brewpub. Inexpensive to moderate.

Beer geek's paradise. In addition to top-quality versions of all the usual brewpub offerings - stouts, ales, porters and such - Sonora usually features two or three specialty brews not to be found anywhere else. You will hear the waitress rattle off things like "cask-aged," "Czechoslovakian hops" (never mind that the country doesn't exist anymore) and "Nine percent" (referring to strength). Don't be intimidated - it's all good. Small tastes are offered free of charge for the vacillating, as long as you don't abuse them. The food is surprisingly good, too - burgers and fish-n-chips are the highlights. No reservations.

Stumpy's Pizza & Subs
1331 E. Northern, bet. 12th & 16th Streets, Phoenix
Pizza, subs, etc. Inexpensive.

This unpretentious but reliable storefront in North-Central Phoenix reminds me of the best Buffalo, NY has to offer. Pizza -- Stumpy's is one of only three acceptable pizza parlors that an East Coast snob like myself has found worthy of a return visit -- and subs are indeed the highlights here, although chicken wings, killer calzones and a few pasta specials are also featured. No table service, but the staff is helpful and friendly. Great lunch specials. For that final upstate New York touch, classic rock is always on the PA. Chase, the owner, claims he is originally from Ohio, but I think he may be hiding something. No reservations (but takeout orders are welcomed).

Super Dragon
1212 E. Northern Ave., bet. 12th & 16th Sts., Phoenix
Chinese. Inexpensive.

A completely non-descript, low-slung building in an old residential neighborhood in the foothills of Squaw Peak, this is the closest I have been able to get to New York or San Francisco Chinatown-style food in Phoenix. Most of the classics to be found there are also found here, and they are so good and cheap it's ridiculous. Hot and sour soup is spectacular, and orange beef reminds me of Chinese takeouts I frequented as a teenager in Queens. And yes, that is a good thing. No reservations.

Willo Bread Company and My Florist Café
534 W. McDowell Rd., at 7th Ave., Phoenix
Mediterranean/Californian. Inexpensive to Moderate.

Gourmet salads and sandwiches, with an emphasis on Mediterranean ingredients, served in a converted florist shop at the edge of the Willo district. Best for lunch and late-night snacking. Hip to the nines, but the food is spectacular, especially the bread, baked on premises and supplied to many better restaurants in the area. It is also sold retail - don't leave without picking up a baguette. Interesting wines and beers are available, but for the designated driver, there is always the Arnold Palmer - half lemonade, half iced tea. And hey, any place that labels its restrooms "boy" and "couple" has got to be worth something, right? No reservations.

Zinc Bistro
15034 N. Scottsdale Rd., in the Kierland Commons Shopping Center, Scottsdale
French. Expensive.

Although a previous reviewer's description as a "Toulouse-Lautrec painting come to life" is a bit of an overstatement, this is probably as close to a traditional Parisian restaurant as one can get in this neck of the woods. The owners even went so far as to put in a pressed tin ceiling. You will find most of the classics, including a not to be missed onion soup, along with a few less usual dishes, sometimes with a North African influence. It is even possible to assemble a classic Belgian meal of steamed mussels, real French fries (served, needless to say, with mayonnaise) and Belgian ale (both Duvel and Chimay are offered), but the mussels can be uneven; beef and lamb tend to be more reliable choices. Reservations accepted only for parties of six or more, but amazingly, the wait never seems to be long even though the place is teeming with diners. The service is attentive, and although not without a pinch of Scottsdale haughtiness, on balance ends up being friendly.